THE EUROPEAN JOURNALS 239 



saw York Minster six or seven miles before reaching the 

 town, that is entered by old gates. The streets are disgust- 

 ingly crooked and narrow, and crossed like the burrows of 

 a rabbit-warren. I was put down at the Black Swan. 

 Though the coach was full, not a word had been spoken 

 except an occasional oath at the weather, which was indeed 

 very cold ; and I, with all the other passengers, went at 

 once to the fires. Anxious to find lodgings not at the 

 Black Swan, I went to Rev. Wm. Turner, son of a gen- 

 tleman I had met at Newcastle, for information. His 

 father had prepared him for my visit at my request, and I 

 was soon installed at Mrs. Pulleyn's in Blake Street. My 

 present landlady's weight, in ratio with that of her husband, 

 is as one pound avoirdupois to one ounce apothecary ! 

 She looks like a round of beef, he like a farthing candle. 

 Oh that I were in Louisiana, strolling about the woods, look- 

 ing in the gigantic poplars for new birds and new flowers ! 



April 23, Monday. The weather looked more like ap- 

 proaching winter than spring; indeed snow fell at short 

 intervals, and it rained, and was extremely cold and misty. 

 Nothwithstanding the disagreeable temperature, I have 

 walked a good deal. I delivered my letters as early as 

 propriety would allow, but found no one in ; at least I was 

 told so, for beyond that I cannot say with any degree of 

 accuracy I fear. The Rev. Mr. Turner called with the 

 curator of the Museum, to whom I showed some drawings. 

 After my dinner, eaten solus, I went out again; the Minster 

 is undoubtedly the finest piece of ancient architecture I 

 have seen since I was in France, if my recollection serves 

 me. I walked round and round it for a long time, examin- 

 ing its height, form, composition, and details, until my neck 

 ached. The details are wonderful indeed, all cut of the 

 same stone that forms the mass outwardly. Leaving it 

 and going without caring about my course, I found myself 

 in front of an ancient castle, 1 standing on a mound, 

 1 Probably St. Mary's Abbey. 



