376 AUDUBON 



at all seasons; the former I suppose to be the Willow 

 Grouse. The men would neither sell nor give us a sin- 

 gle salmon, saying that so strict were their orders that, 

 should they sell one, the place might be taken from them. 

 If this should prove the case everywhere, I shall not pur- 

 chase many for my friends. The furs which they collect 

 are sent off to Quebec at the first opening of the waters 

 in spring, and not a skin of any sort was here for us to 

 look at. We met here two large boats containing about 

 twenty Montagnais Indians, old and young, men and 

 women. They carried canoes lashed to the sides, like 

 whale-ships, for the Seal fishery. The men were stout and 

 good-looking, spoke tolerable French, the skin redder 

 than any Indians I have ever seen, and more clear ; the 

 women appeared cleaner than usual, their hair braided 

 and hanging down, jet black, but short. All were dressed 

 in European costume except the feet, on which coarse 

 moccasins of sealskin took the place of shoes. I made a 

 bargain with them for some Grouse, and three young men 

 were despatched at once. On leaving the harbor this 

 morning we saw a black man-of-war-like looking vessel 

 entering it with the French flag ; she anchored near us, 

 and on our return we were told it was the Quebec cutter. 

 I wrote a note to the officer commanding, enclosing my 

 card, and requesting an interview. The commander 

 replied he would receive me in two hours. His name 

 was Captain Bayfield, the vessel the "Gulnare." The 

 sailor who had taken my note was asked if I had pro- 

 cured many birds, and how far I intended to proceed. 

 After dinner, which consisted of hashed Eider Ducks, 

 which were very good, the females always being fat when 

 sitting, I cut off my three weeks' beard, put on clean 

 linen, and with my credentials in my pocket went to the 

 "Gulnare." I was received politely, and after talking on 

 deck for a while, was invited into the cabin, and was 

 introduced to the doctor, who appeared to be a man of 



