92 AMATEUR RODMAKING 



should be more rapid than in a rod intended 

 for slow, even casting with light lures, and for 

 accuracy casting. In this the taper may be 

 rapid for a short distance, then slow to the tip, 

 giving greater resilience to the whole rod, but 

 retaining strength near the handgrasp. 



Several trials should satisfy you with the 

 rod. If it is reduced in places, finish as before, 

 with the final coat of varnish rubbed in. This 

 thin coat serves as a protection under the silk 

 windings, which, as will be explained in the 

 proper place, are put on without wax. You are 

 now ready to wind and varnish the rod. 



If you decide to wind the grasp with cord, 

 procure one of the pine single grasps which 

 cost about twenty cents, and trim it to fit the 

 reelseat snugly, tapering at the forward end to 

 fit the metal taper. Slide it down over the rod 

 and glue it in place. When dry form a shoul- 

 der at the bottom so the cord will end there, as 

 shown in Fig. 31, and wind with cord. The 

 cord should be covered for a quarter-inch at 

 the butt by the cap, and for an equal distance 

 at the other end by the reelseat. The latter is 

 put on in the same fashion as with a cork 

 grasp. 



If you wish to make a double cork grasp, 

 the reelseat and taper shown in Fig. 18 are 



