SPLIT BAMBOO RODMAKING 177 



deep end, and y$ at the shallow end, and with 

 a try-square and pencil mark entirely across 

 the block at 6-inch intervals, putting the dis- 

 tances of each from the butt on one side of 

 the groove, and the proper finished depth on 

 the other. Your reference figures will in this 

 way always be before you as you work. If 

 your block be three feet long, it will be spaced 

 as shown in Fig. 53. 



Fig. 53. Maple Block with Grooves Cut on Three 

 Faces. (The caliber marks are merely arbitrary ones 

 to illustrate the idea.) 



Now for a depth and taper gauge. The 

 only reliable one for this purpose that I have 

 ever seen was shown me by its inventor, E. 

 R. Letterman, of the Chicago Fly-Casting 

 Club. Mr. Letterman gave me permission to 

 make one like his and to describe it for the 

 benefit of fellow Anglers. In making mine 

 (Fig. 54) I departed from his model only in 

 attaching the set-screw. For the base I used 

 a piece of 1-16 inch hard brass (A). To this 

 were riveted two strips of brass (C C) of the 

 same thickness as the steel center gauge (B). 

 The gauge may be had at any hardware shop 



