WOOD-FINISHING AND PAINTING 99 



grain, needs a light coat of finishing material. Raw linseed 

 oil is generally used for this purpose. That it may penetrate 

 to the greatest extent, the oil should be applied when hot. A 

 soft cloth, cotton waste or a brush may be used. When the 

 oil has evaporated, or has set in the wood, a brisk rubbing will 

 secure a dull polish, which, however, will not long continue ex- 

 cept by repeated rubbing, which may be done on inside work 

 in the process of dusting. 



Oak, when used outside, as for garden furniture, is pro- 

 tected somewhat from the weather when given coats of hot 

 linseed oil two or three times annually. 



84. Wax. This may be secured in cans as "prepared 

 wax." It is frequently used to give a natural finish of low 

 gloss. This material is a substitute for oil and serves not so 

 much as a preservative by means of penetration as by virtue 

 of its filling up openings. When rubbed with a soft cloth, it 

 gives a velvet-like polish. Wax hardens with time and, 

 therefore, makes a very satisfactory wood finish, especially if 

 new coats are added from time to time and if the waxed sur- 

 faces are rubbed occasionally. 



85. Water Stains are the simplest of all liquid finishes to 

 apply. They are sold both in powder and liquid form. A 

 water stain is applied with a brush and, before dry, is rubbed 

 with a cloth or with waste. If care is taken in mixing and ap- 

 plying, there is li.ttle difficulty in securing a uniform color. 

 Wax or one of the class B finishes may be used after the stain 

 has dried. 



Before applying a water stain, the wood should be thoroly 

 scraped and sandpapered, and then "wet down" with water. 

 Water raises the grain as would the water stain if applied first. 



