410 ROPE AND HARNESS WORK 



very objectionable to store the harness in most stables due to 

 the effect of the moisture and the ammonia from the manure. 

 When the stable is kept thoroly cleaned and is well ventilated, 

 harness can be kept with little damage and are thereby much 

 more conveniently located for use. 



411. Harness Oil. Be careful not to use a mineral oil 

 for the harness or leather belts. Mineral oils will cause the 

 leather to dry out and crack. Buy only standard brands 

 found on the market. A good oil can be made by melting 

 three pounds of tallow without letting it boil, and gently add- 

 ing one pound of neat's-f oot oil. Stir continuously until cold 

 so that it will be perfectly mixed. Color by adding a little 

 lampblack. 



412. Repair Leather. Leather for repairing can be 

 bought from any harness shop. It is best to buy a fairly 

 large piece, as it can be secured much more cheaply that way. 

 Some men buy a half hide, and, thereby, secure some of 

 both the best quality leather from the back of the hide and the 

 poorer, cheaper belly leather. The latter can be used where 

 there is little strain. 



413. Equipment for HarnessWork. A clamp is needed 

 for holding the work. This can easily be made at home. 

 Some men prefer a vise to a clamp. A common type of clamp 

 is illustrated and described under woodwork. (Fig. 86.) 

 In addition to the clamp, the repair outfit should consist of 

 the following: One dozen sewing needles, different sizes; a 

 sharp knife, half dozen awls, ball of shoe thread, two awl 

 handles, one revolving punch, one small riveter with rivets. 

 The entire repair outfit can be purchased for less than $2. 

 Instead of shoe thread and wax, the prepared thread can be 



