202 LEAVING THE LONE LAND 



storm so far, but the air to-day was heavy, and 

 fog hung over the lake in the distance, while 

 it remained bitingly cold, and the dogs, as usual, 

 were white with the back-flung frozen moisture 

 of their breathing. 



A few Caribou were sighted far off at dusk, but 

 we did not attempt to follow them. At no 

 other time this day did we see a single living 

 creature on the great motionless wastes of snow. 



December 31. — To-day heavy white fog en- 

 wrapped Reindeer Lake until late afternoon, and 

 all landmarks were hidden. After our first fire 

 the Indians lost their true direction and were for 

 a time at a loss. Soon, however, they doubled 

 back on their tracks, and eventually picked up old 

 signs to eastward. 



This night we camped at a Cree's wigwam on 

 the east shore of Reindeer Lake, about half a 

 day's journey from the south end. Here we 

 partook of the Indian's hospitality within the 

 crowded smoke-filled confines of his primitive 

 dwelling. Food was soon forthcoming from the 

 large black pot which hung in the centre of the 

 teepee over a good fire from which the wood-smoke 

 leisurely ascended, to finally percolate through the 

 opening at the peak overhead or sneak through 

 the seams of the small door-flap. When food was 

 ready, we strangers were first served, with vessels 

 piled to mountainous heights, with Caribou 

 meat, which was placed on the ground before us 

 by the women-folk. Soon the two men of the 

 Cree family also commenced their meal, after 

 withdrawing a little apart ; and I passed on to 

 them a portion of my sugar store and bannock, as 



