140 AMERICAN GAME. 



the gills, at about two inches apart from head to tail, 

 cool him for ten minutes in a very cold spring, or on ice, 

 boil him in screeching hot salt and water, and eat him 

 with no condiment but salt and the squeeze of a lemon. 

 If he be under a pound, there is nothing for it but to 

 fry him, but remember to use neither butter nor lard, 

 which are abominations to the gnostic, but the best oil 

 of Aix, and see that the oil is seething and the pan crack- 

 ling hot before you put them in. Garnish with fried 

 parsley on a very hot dish ; and in whichever way you 

 cook them, eat them whenever you can get them, that 

 is to say, between March and September in the north- 

 west you may substitute for the last November ; on the 

 third of which month, last season, I discoursed sundry 

 in prime condition, at mine host Brown's, on the Sault 

 St. Marie ; and the taste is scarce out of my mouth yet. 

 I have tasted nothing like them since, or expect to do so 

 until next September, when, the wind and weather-gods 

 permitting, I hope to wet a line there, in the Fly-fisher's 

 true Paradise. And may you have, whoever you be, 

 gentle reader, and wheresoever you throw the long line 

 and neat fly, such sport as I anticipate. 



