320 AMERICAN GAME. 



as seen and felt upon the board, not yet in his grander 

 and nobler capacity and character, as game in the free 

 air, or on the liberal waters, let us observe that the cook 

 who sends this glorious fowl red-raw np to the table, to 

 be cut up butcherly and bedeviled in a chafing-dish, 

 with wine and jelly, and I know not what, is worthy of 

 a rope and the nearest lamp-post death without benefit 

 of clergy. The man who would so condescend to eat 

 him, his juicy, melting, natural richness disguised by 

 cloying artificial sweetness, deserves incontinently to be 

 elected a New York alderman, and doomed to batten, 

 life-long, at the corporation to-table ; nor can we con- 

 ceive a doom more hideous or -intolerable to be endured 

 by N any rational, much more refined or thinking man, 

 than such a condemnation ; whether we regard , the 

 quality of the gross feeders and fowl-livers with whom 

 he would have to consort, or the nature of the ill-cooked 

 ill-assorted, rank and racy viands which he would be 

 compelled to absorb. 



ISTo ! let the kitchen be the kitchen, and its work be 

 done within its own confines. Let the duck, roasted to 

 a turn, redolent of a rapid fire, and brownly, nay, but 

 almost Hackly crisp without, be served up on its lordly 

 dish, without one gout of sauce or gravy to dim the 

 splendor of the sheeny porcelain. A vase of celery 

 may accompany him, and, if you will, a salver of halved 

 lemons, but no more. Let him be placed before the 

 right man of the company, one competent to 



