HUNTING THE JAGUAR 59 



therefore again struck camp, proceeding further 

 up the reaches of the mighty Essequibo, the river 

 that glides through wonderland. Silver and 

 golden sand bars swept into view; on one side 

 of the river naked cyclopean rocks caused the 

 water to hiss and roar as it fought for a passage ; 

 while looking away to the southwest great forest- 

 clad hills rose tier upon tier, and in the glow of 

 the stooping sun's soft medley of shade of color, 

 produced the soothing effect of an opiate bath. 

 We encamped that night on a sand bar, and 

 scarcely had we made our camp when we saw 

 clouds of insects coming across the river, and 

 soon we were in the midst of a swarm of flying 

 ants. In vain we muffled our heads and lit innu- 

 merable smudges; they settled on everything, 

 crawled up our arms and dropped down our 

 backs. Finally the cook announced he could not 

 prepare the dinner, as they swarmed into the pots 

 whenever he lifted the lids. They had an un- 

 pleasant way, too, of shedding their wings as 

 they alighted, and remaining as simple and play- 

 ful as caterpillars. We began to think we would 

 go dinnerless, when just as darkness settled down 

 they all seemed to disappear as they had come, 

 leaving behind myriads of wings and creepy bod- 



