365 



passport would be necessary from the Chinese Government, 

 which, though much easier to obtain now than it was formerly, 

 is still by no means easy to get, nor, having got it, is there 

 any certainty that there would not be obstacles thrown in 

 the path of anyone wishing to visit the Pamir from the Chinese 

 side. 



The second is the Gilgit, Yassim, Chitral, and Badakshan 

 route, but the political difficulties at present put this out of the 

 question. 



The third is by the Transcaspian Railway. 



I have made two visits to the Pamir, the first in 1888, the 

 second in 1890, and Mrs. Littledale accompanied me upon 

 both occasions. In 1888 I did not know anything about the 

 country or the chances of sport, beyond the mere fact that the 

 Pamir was the habitat of the Poli sheep ; but as to which par- 

 ticular district I ought to visit, or what special outfit I ought to 

 take with me, I could obtain no information either in England 

 or Russia. However, I had the good fortune to meet the 

 Rev. Dr. H. Lansdell, who gave me valuable advice as to the 

 route to Khokand. 



From the Russian officials we received the greatest civility 

 on all sides ; whatever antagonism there may be between the 

 two countries politically, it begins and ends with politics ; for 

 socially at the present day there is no nation more popular in 

 Russia than the English, nor do I know any country wherein a 

 man, furnished with proper letters of introduction, will be made 

 to feel more at home than in Russia. 



Saturday, August 5, 1888, found Mrs. Littledale and myself 

 camped in a valley, flat as a billiard-table, about two miles 

 wide, which was one vast river-bed of soft shingle, cut up into 

 countless channels, which varied day by day, almost minute by 

 minute, one or two hours of sunshine bringing down a flood 

 like a mill race, which cut new channels and left old ones dry, 

 making that which was a difficult ford in the morning almost 

 dry by night, and moving the main stream maybe half a mile 

 away. 



