April. 1012. 



KNOWLEDGE. 



141 



costume of the Fontainebleau period and was 

 turned by Saiitiiii when it got very sliahby. 

 Tile cocl<ade was dropped in June, 1817. .\it< i' 

 Santini's departure, tailors from Jamestown and 

 the British regiments made various articles of 

 dress for Longwood, but nothing specially for 

 Napoleon, except the " planter's" costume. It is to 

 Mr. Watson that we are indebted for a knowledge of 

 Captain Nicholls's journal, in which, with "sartorial 

 correctitude," he describes the grotestjue ap()earanre 

 of the General (the use of the word Emperor was 

 strictly forbidden), in "his nankeen jacket, waiscoat 

 and trou'scrs and a straw hat." The Duke of 

 Wellington is credited with basing in\enti;d trowsers 

 about 1810. The Bath militiamen threatened a 

 mutiny in defence of the doomed knee-breeches, and 

 Oxford and Cambridge undergraduates who adopted 

 the new garments incurred grave censure on the i)art 

 of the outraged authorities. We see the " planter's " 

 garb in the horrible portrait entitled " Napoleon at 

 St. Helena in the second vear of Cancer of the 

 Stomach" issued by Standridge & Co.. London. 

 early in 18J1. Below the cynical artist or ])ublishc r 

 has |)laced the lines : — 



" I never had for abstract fame much passion, 

 But would much rather have a sound digestion 

 Than Buonaparte's cancer — could I dash on 

 Tlnough fifty victories to shame or fame, 

 W'itlioiil ii stomach — what were a great name? " 



.T^lc^Ay c/-^^/'^<w7t/6- ^a^^ 



ylrau^j^^ />-tr>r^ v^ti_-..^L^ <t^- 



^ ^^>ixj S /<flo 



Mr. Watson sa\s that this dress was adopted in 

 IN^O. but it does not appear, at an\- rate in its 

 entiretw m the ])ortrait entitled "Fleshy ci-devant 

 Bom — Drawn from ih'- life :it I ,nn;,'W(i(iil. luno 5{h. 



Anonymous caricature portrait. June 5th, hSiO. 



Napoleon 



1820." (See Figure 162.) It is altogether absent in 

 the Dodgin portrait of the same year (see Figure 

 161), but it is clearly shewn in a third 1820 portrait 

 in the collection of the writer. (See Figure 163.) 

 Archembault replaced Santini as tailor, and Captain 

 Lutyens in his journal speaks of a tailor ot tlu' 

 66th regiment being hard at work with him. 

 Mr. Watson inftKaiied the writer that " the oidy 

 o\ercoat the Emperor used was a little grey one, as 

 on the field of battle. The 'cloak of Marengo" was 

 religioush- kept b\- Marchand, and used onl\- for the 

 last function after death. On the opening of the 

 cofhn in 1840, it was found in fair condition, as well 

 as the Chasseur's uniform. The epaulets had 

 tarnished, but the central head of the Legion of 

 Honour plac] lie was still bright. The boots had split 

 and the toes protruded." This last is clearly seen 

 ill the illustration. Figure 104, in the last issue of this 

 journal. 



\\'hen Na[)oleon landed at St. Helena at the end of 

 1815 he was already sallow and corpulent. No great 

 change occurred in 1816 or 1817, but later he put 

 on more flesh, and we have the pronounced double 

 chin and flaccid face reflected in the Dodgin portrait 



