268 FISHES I HAVE KNOWN 



built near a salmon-river or trout-stream, number- 

 less castles and mansions were surrounded by 

 moats utilised as fish-preserves, many of which 

 still remain, as at Ightam in Kent, the Bishop's 

 Palace at Wells, and at Helmingham Hall, 

 Suffolk. 



In a very interesting account that exists of the 

 coronation banquet of King James II., we read 

 that in addition to the ninety-nine dishes of choice 

 meats, called an auibigue, served up at the King's 

 table, there were oyster-pies, sturgeon, carp, soused 

 tench, razor-fish (solen), whelks, and periwinkles (!) 

 the fishy list ending with samphire, which grows 

 only in a sea-atmosphere. Salmon and trout, 

 mullet and soles, are not mentioned in the menu, 

 nor even the homely mackerel, herring, haddock, 

 flounder, skate, or sprat. 



In Hanoverian times fish appears to have been 

 out of favour even with the rich. 



Thackeray describes a dinner given in Addison's 

 and Steele's days by a lady of fashion, the repast 

 beginning at 3 p.m., not with soup (that came 

 later on), but with a sirloin of beef, a shoulder of 

 veal, a tongue, and fish, which last is casually 

 mentioned, as of no account. 



In the early part of the nineteenth century 

 there was a difficulty in getting supplies of fish, 



