62 FISHES OF THE VICINITY OF NEW YORK 



call it an excellent table fish. One thing is certain, namely, that its 

 capture affords pleasure to many hundreds of persons, both young and 

 old. We quote from Goode's "American Fishes" recipes for cooking 

 Perch : 



" How to Cook Perch : This famous dish, water souche, souchy or 

 sokey, does not seem to have been naturalized in America. The follow- 

 ing recipe from an old angler's manual seems more practicable than 

 others given by later authorities: Scale and wash your Perch; put salt 

 in your water; when it boils put in the fish with an onion cut in slices; 

 put in chopped parsley enough to turn the water white; season with salt 

 and pepper, and as soon as the fish is done serve it in a deep dish, pour- 

 ing a little water over it, with the parsley and onions. Melted butter 

 and parsley should be served in a tureen. Slices of brown bread and 

 butter generally accompany this dish. The writer has tasted a water 

 souche prepared by a famous London cook, but does not remember it 

 with rapture. The favorite American method is to fry the Perch to a 

 crisp, with salt pork rather than with butter. In summer, when the 

 skin is slightly bitter, it may advantageously be removed, at other 

 times the fish is better simply scaled. This method is hearty and best 

 adapted to the needs of hungry anglers. Many will prefer the continen- 

 tal method of stewing them in vinegar or lemon juice, or in some kind of 

 sour sauce. In Italy they are roasted on the spit without removing the 

 scales, and bathed while roasting with vinegar or lemon juice, a method 

 not unsuitable to camp life in the woods. The following directions are 

 taken from the International Fishery Exhibition Cookery Book. 



"Boiled Perch: Lay the fish in boiling water, with a quarter of a 

 pound of salt to each gallon, and simmer gently for about ten minutes. 

 Garnish with parsley and serve with plain melted butter. (This, re- 

 sembles the water souche). 



"Fried Perch: Brush the fish over with egg, and sprinkle bread 

 crumbs over it. Have ready boiling lard; put the fish in and fry a nice 

 brown. Serve with anchovy sauce. 



"Perch Stewed with Wine: Lay them on a stew pan with sufficient 

 stock and sherry to cover them. Put in a bay leaf, garlic, parsley, two 

 cloves and salt, and simmer till tender, then remove the fish, strain the 

 liquor, add a thickening of butter and flour, pepper, nutmeg and anchovy 

 sauce; sit it over the fire until somewhat reduced, pour over the fish and 

 serve. 'Broiled Perch Flitters' are spoken of with enthusiasm by early 

 gourmets." 



