xiv INTRODUCTION 



should be performed directly after sowing, as then 

 there are no roots to break or disturb. After putting 

 in the larger sticks (Hazel for choice) it is as well to 

 add a few small ones after, close to the seeds, 

 for the seedlings to get hold of quickly. The re- 

 mains of a worn-out besom is a handy and economi- 

 cal thing to use for this purpose when cut from the 

 handle. 



WATERING. This operation requires more care than 

 is often given to it. In dry weather a little sprinkling 

 does more harm very often than good. The roots are 

 attracted to the surface only to be burnt up by the hot 

 rays of the sun. When watering do it thoroughly, so 

 that it may go down to the roots, and not the roots up 

 to the moisture. Some Annuals, like Sweet Peas, 

 especially if grown for exhibition, require copious 

 watering, and occasionally with a little liquid manure 

 added. Always water after the sun is off the plants ; 

 and it may be added, rain-water saved in a tub is 

 preferable to water from a pipe. It is softer and not 

 so cold. In the case of very minute seeds, when sown 

 in pots, and practically on the surface, instead of 

 watering overhead, it is safer to place the pots in a 

 saucer containing about 2 ins. of water for two hours, 

 which will soak through to the soil. Unless that is 

 done the seeds are liable to float on the water and 

 get washed out. 



In the case of the Canterbury Bell, a second crop of 

 flowers will result if the seed-pods of the first flowers 

 are removed. 



GATHERING SEED. Few amateurs care to sow their 



