CHAPTER VII. 



THROUGH THE COASTAL WILDERNESS WITH 

 INDIANS AND CANOE. 



THE most interesting observation we made on the launch 

 trip from Hoorie Creek down the Barama River, was of 

 a flocking of more than two hundred big green Cassiques 15 

 the birds of the liquid cow-bell notes, which passed low over- 

 head with a roar of cackling voices, and a loud whistling of 

 wings, bound for some safe roosting place still another 

 species to exhibit this common roosting habit. 



We found Farnum's deserted, the family having gone 

 down to Georgetown, so we took possession of the empty 

 house; swinging our hammocks on the porch and watching 

 the sun sink over the river, with the dark forest beyond, 

 growing ever darker. As we had been told that there were 

 no mosquitoes, we had not hung our hammock nets, and the 

 droning hum of these miserable pests kept us awake for hours. 

 From across the river came the discontinuous, labored puffs 

 of an overloaded freight train pulling up a grade. Now 

 and then the wheels would slip and four or five chugs would 

 come in quick succession. One could imagine the heavy 

 trail of smoke and sparks, the shining rails and the long 

 line of heavy, slowly moving cars then the sound ceased, 

 and far down the river another frog took up the chugging. 

 Now and then the voice of a red "baboon" came to our 

 ears; and continually the mosquitoes " zooned " and on the 

 floor below our hammocks the dog whined unceasingly as 

 he scratched his bete rouge. When we opened our eyes, 



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