204 PERMANENT PLANTATIONS. 



produce a decidedly unpleasant contrast with vegetation. 

 This can all be accomplished by the cheap and simple 

 means referred to, and others that may suggest them- 

 selves. 



The main walks alone should be gravelled ; the smaller 

 alleys, or paths, between the different lines of trees or com- 

 partments of the gai'den, are principally for the use of the 

 workmen. In very small gardens, where it is important 

 to economize the ground, the spaces devoted to the walks 

 may be of plank, raised on pillars or blocks a foot from 

 the ground ; the roots of trees can then penetrate the 

 ground below the walk as well as the border, and scarce 

 any ground will be lost. 



Water. — A supply of water in the garden is a most 

 important consideration in onr warm, diy, sunny climate. 

 Good crops of culinary vegetables cannot be secured in 

 many seasons witiiout a liberal application of water ; and 

 fruit-trees are greatly benefited by frequent showering, 

 especially in dry weather. It refreshes them and drives 

 away insects. A good well or cistern should- therefore 

 be provided in every garden, and be situated as near the 

 center as possible, to be convenient to all parts. 



SELECTION OF TREES. 



TTieir Form. — "We start upon the principle that, in 

 all cases, tall standard trees, such as are usually planted 

 in orchards, are totally unfit for the garden. This is the 

 chief defect in American fruit gardening. All the trees 

 for a fruit garden should be either dwarf standards, with 

 trunks two to three feet high, ^>^/ram^(/s, branched from 

 the ground, or hushes, with stems six to twelve inches 

 high. Trees in these forms are, in the first place, in keep- 

 ing with the limited extent of the garden, and convey, at 

 first sight, the idea of fitness. In the second place, they 

 give a great variety on a small space, for three or four 



