312 THE RASPBERRY. 



In pruning it, the young wood must "be preserved, anfl 

 branches that have borne must be cut back to produce a 

 succession of new bearing wood, as in the filbert. 



Manuring. — No other fruit tree is so patient under bad 

 treatment as the currant, and yet none yields a more 

 prompt or abundant reward for kindness. In addition to 

 the annual pruning described, the bushes should receive a 

 dressing of old, well-prepared manure, two or three inches 

 deep, spread all around as far as the roots go, and forked 

 lightly in. It is a great feeder, and, without these annual 

 dressings, the soil becomes so poor that the fruit is really 

 not worth gathering. 



Planting, Pruning, and Training the Raspberry. 



Planting. — The raspberry succeeds well in all good 

 garden soils in the Northern States, but the foreign varie- 

 ties {Ruhus Id(jeus) do not succeed at the South or South- 

 west. The most advantageous and economical position 

 for a raspberry bed in the garden is generally in the wall 

 border, facing north. In this situation the fruit ripens 

 sufficiently, and the canes are not so liable to suffer from 

 alternate freezing and thawing in tlie winter. The young 

 canes or suckers are shortened full one half, and planted 

 at the distance of two or three feet. Any flowers that 

 make their appearance on them the first season should be 

 removed, in order to turn all the sap to the benefit of the 

 leaves and new roots, and tlie production of a young cane 

 for the next season. 



Pruning. — The stem is biennial — that is, the canes are 

 produced one season and bear fruit the next, and then die. 

 For example, in fig. 152, A is the old cane that has borne, 

 and is of no further use. P is the young cane produced 

 at its base last season. The fruit buds produce small 

 shoots, a, a, a, that bear the fruit. The pruning is very 

 simple J it consists merely in cutting away early iu the 



