A RUN THROUGH KATIIIAWAK. 227 



screamed rather than sang, sometimes raising their. 

 voices in a most ear-piercing manner, but always 

 keeping time to the music with the motions of their 

 limbs and bodies. On leaving one of these parties 

 the Civil Engineer expressed a wish that our friends 

 could see us, adorned as we were with garlands of 

 3! i '-ii llowers. A more objectionable practice was 

 that, on our departure, of daubing our hands, hand- 

 kerchiefs, and the sleeves of our coats with attar of 

 roses, sandal- oil, and other I cannot say always 

 sweet-smelling, but certainly always strong-smelling 

 oils. Indeed the higher up in society we went, the 

 more awful and prostrating was the perfume which 

 was graciously rubbed on our coats. At least, how- 

 ever, we had hookahs, the smoke of which was tem- 

 pered by passing through rose-water, and were at 

 liberty to smoke cheroots. 



I was first introduced to the Xawab at an elephant- 

 fight, which he invited me to see after the other 

 Englishmen had departed from Jiinaghar. He had 

 about twenty elephants of all sizes, and I had ex- 

 amined the stud. The fighting was between both 

 men and elephants, and elephants and elephants. 

 The balcony in which his Highness and myself sat, 

 accompanied by ]>hauaddi'n, Salahindi, and other 

 Muhammadan nobles of his court, opened on the. 

 large walled arena in which the' fighting took place, 

 and was by no means out of reach of an elephant's 

 trunk; but to guard against any accident from that 



