A RUN THROUGH KATHIAWAlt. 229 



light of some magnesium wire with which once or 

 twice I lit up the arena. The bejewelled Muham- 

 madau nobles around me were very picturesque 

 figures ; and so, in another way, were the Avild- 

 looking spearsmen ; while the top of the walls of the 

 arena was alive with the population of Jiinaghar. 



The fighting of elephants with elephants was a 

 mere trial of strength ; and they were placed with a 

 thick low wall, about three or four feet high, between. 

 them. This was in order to prevent the victor going 

 to extremities, and killing his opponent. As it was, 

 they only pushed against each other with their fore- 

 heads, and pushed each other's trunks aside, or en- 

 twined their trunks, and so tried to bend each other's 

 heads down. I was curious to see a fight between 

 an elephant and a very fine rhinoceros which the 

 Xawab had, and the quickness of whose motions was 

 quite astonishing ; but was told that every time the 

 rhinoceros had been brought into the arena it had 

 killed either a man or an elephant, and so it was no 

 longer brought out to do battle. 



The Xawab himself impressed me favourably in 

 some respects. He was evidently a man of good 

 disposition, and not wanting in natural shrewdness 

 of mind ; but the circumstances of his training had 

 unfitted him for taking much part in the cares of 

 government. In a native state so isolated and left 

 to itself as Jiinaghar has been, and yet with the 

 corrective of revolution suppressed, great abuses must 



