SHIEAZ TO BUSHIEE. 51 



old and young, were all unveiled. They approached 

 us without the least hesitation, and brought us some 

 large jars of curds and whey. The men implored us 

 for medicines : they seemed to think that anything 

 we had by us in the shape of medicine must be 

 precious. I happened to have some dozen rhubarb 

 pills in my saddle-bags, and the properties of the 

 drug having been duly explained, they were carried 

 off as a priceless treasure. "Whilst we were waiting 

 here, a mule of ours, carrying one of the grooms and 

 some stable kit, fell backwards into the little stream 

 near the village. The groom soon scrambled out, 

 but the poor mule stuck fast in the black mud. The 

 whole village at once rushed down to the scene of 

 action, and, under a storm of blows and Allans, the 

 animal struggled on to the bank. Leaving the village, 

 we commenced the rugged ascent of the Pier-e-zun, 

 or " Old Woman's Pass." The path led over one 

 continual mass of large boulders and rocks, and it 

 was as much as we could do to keep the horses on 

 their legs. T\ r e ascended continually for about an 

 hour, and then found ourselves on the summit of the 

 Pass. There was no view, for the precipitous moun- 

 tain-sides closed in upon the road, and allowed nothing 

 but their rocks and chasms immediately over our 

 heads to be seen. "We then made a rapid zigzag 

 descent to the caravanserai of Mean-i-Kotul. The 

 serai had been lately erected, and was in good order 

 in consequence. It was built on a natural terrace 



