128 TRA\ 7 EL, ADVENTURE, AKD SPORT. 



Gazargah, a place which is supposed to have been 

 the site of a Persian encampment in the days of 

 the Persian siege. Here Dost Mohammed is buried. 

 It is a striking place, not so much from the magni- 

 ficence of the shrine itself, which has been too much 

 battered and ruined by long years of neglect to be 

 impressive, as from the fine trees which surround it. 

 This is one of the few places in Afghanistan where 

 the Scotch fir is to be seen. 



A courteous visit from the iNaib, or Governor, was 

 received during the afternoon. The Kaib (who is 

 a Ghilzai) is a model Afghan chief. His pleasant 

 genial appearance and manners would secure him 

 friends anywhere. The Naib is exactly the sort of 

 man yon would like to find in your host at a hos- 

 pitable country house, or one of a small party at a 

 dinner at your club. No English host could have 

 been more English in his welcome, or more frankly 

 pleasant in conversation. But though the Naib's re- 

 ception of us was all that we could wish, we did not 

 then know what we might meet with from the people. 

 It must be remembered that the people of Herat are 

 not one but two very distinct peoples. There are 

 the ruling class and the ruled. The former are 

 Kabulis, and comprise all the regular troops except 

 a few Kandahar regiments ; and they belong to the 

 tribes of the north Ghilzai, Logari, Kohistani, Pagh- 

 mani, &c. The Heratis belong to the Durani tribes 

 of the south and west ; and between the north and 



