A RECENT RIDE TO HERAT. 131 



with its central dome, flanked by high square-built 

 wings, enclosing a gigantic court in front. The 

 entrance to the court is below an arch, which forms 

 by far the most prominent featiire of the whole 

 pile. These main arches must be at least 80 feet 

 high ; and as a high square Avail is carried up above 

 the crown to the height of another 40 feet or so, this 

 arched entrance dwarfs by its enormous size both the 

 dome and the delicate forms of the four minarets 

 which guard the building at each corner, and which 

 are in themselves marvellously beautiful in outline 

 and symmetry. The face and interior of the Masalla 

 (except the wings), as well as the exterior of the 

 minarets, and of the domed Masjid which stands 

 apart, covering the shrine of Shah Rukh, are all 

 covered with enamel -work, illustrating the delicate 

 beauty of an art which is lost. Shades of blue and 

 green, from azure and emerald to the deep tones of 

 indigo and of a lustrous peacock green (I don't know 

 how else to describe it), varied with yellows from 

 lemon to russet, including all the tints of dying and 

 dead leaves in autumn, are blended in the devices of 

 this faience. It is not the coarse tile- work such as is 

 common in India (though in general effect it resembles 

 Multan pottery, which is very effective in its way), 

 but all the delicate tracery of the design is carefully 

 graven into the clay before the enamel is burnt on. 

 This fa'ience, I think, constitutes the chief beauty of 

 the Masalla. Yet the gigantic size of the whole hill, 



