A RECENT RIDE TO HERAT. 133 



that a temporary peace was to be purchased at the 

 expense of full concession to the Russian demands. 

 "\Ve believed that -war was inevitable, and our 

 thoughts were full not so much of concession as 

 of what small contribution we ourselves might make 

 towards rendering concession unnecessary. It seemed 

 so easy to ride in, after all, and make a first acquaint- 

 ance with Herat. If these were our first associa- 

 tions with the city, what would our last be, and how 

 would they find us 1 



The walls were lined with people, who, after the 

 fashion of orientals, welcomed us silently. Astonish- 

 ment seemed at first their chief feeling on the sub- 

 ject. Guards were posted at close intervals in all 

 open spaces and main streets, and the clash of salutes 

 was incessant. We rode quickly through to the 

 quarters assigned to us. These were in a large roomy 

 building, with a square courtyard in front, but of 

 no particular pretensions, architecturally or other- 

 wise. Three magnificent rooms were painted bright 

 purple, blue, and yellow respectively, for our occupa- 

 tion; and the gold-leaf was laid on the cornices so 

 thickly, that it appeared in danger of peeling off 

 from its very weight. The floors were thickly car- 

 peted, but the furniture was scanty, for the reason 

 that Herati folk never use furniture themselves, and 

 are not in the habit of entertaining European visitors. 

 From the roof of the house a magnificent view of 

 the city and citadel was to be obtained. 



