KASHMIR. 261 



risked her life for him when the audacious Mahabat 

 Khan unexpectedly made liim a prisoner. The 

 memory of these faithful lovers seems still to linger 

 about the Nishat Bagh, and to have transferred itself 

 into the imperial splendour of the plane-trees, the 

 grateful shadow of the mountains, and the soft dreamy 

 vista over the placid lake. 



Nearly all the English visitors had left Kashmir 

 before I reached that country, and this gave me more 

 opportunity of enjoying the society of Mr Le Poer 

 Wynne, of whom I may speak more freely than of 

 other Indian officials who remain. Two or three 

 officers, on their Avay out of the valley, appeared at 

 the Residency, and a couple of young Englishmen, or 

 Colonials, fresh from the antipodes, who could see 

 little to admire in Kashmir ; but the only resident 

 society in Srinagar was a fine Frenchman, a shawl 

 agent, and Colonel Gardiner, who commanded the 

 Maharajah's artillery, a soldier of fortune ninety years 

 of age. Colonel Gardiner was born on the shores of 

 Lake Superior, and had wandered into Central Asia 

 at an early period. There was something almost 

 appalling to hear this ancient warrior discourse of 

 what have now become almost prehistoric times, and 

 relate his experiences in the service of Ranjit Singh, 

 Shah Shiija, Dost Mohammed, and other kings and 

 chiefs less known to fame. If (as I have no reason 

 to believe) he occasionally confused hearsay with his 

 own experience, it could scarcely be wondered at 



