TRAVELS IN CIRCASSIA. 321 



swelled into hills ; the park was converted into forest ; 

 from its tone of exquisite softness the scenery gradu- 

 ally changed to one of majestic grandeur ; deep gorges 

 cleft the precipitous ranges of the lower Caucasus 

 hitherto untrodden by the foot of the western traveller 

 and gave rise to a longing desire to penetrate into 

 the mysteries of their gloomy recesses. Sweeping 

 down the rugged side of the lofty range beyond, 

 enormous glaciers descended into dark - blue haze, 

 and, towering over all, a chain of glittering snowy 

 peaks, round which hovered a multitude of fleecy 

 clouds, shot into the sky. 



There Avas a picturesque old church within a few 

 yards of the house, which we went to inspect. It is 

 of Byzantine architecture, and probably dates from 

 the eighth or ninth century. The walls, built of a 

 freestone, are in the shape of a square, and sur- 

 mounted by an octagonal dome. The interior is 

 ornamented with numerous rough frescoes ; while 

 slabs, inscribed with Georgian characters, mark the 

 burial-places of some of the former rulers of Abkhasia. 

 An intelligent young priest, with locks flowing over 

 his shoulders, did the honours of the church, and 

 showed some curious illuminated Bibles in Georgian 

 character. It is said that the emperor had intended 

 to form this church into a monastery, and the seat of 

 a colony of priests for Abkhasia. 



While one of our party, whose Crimean sketches 

 have gained for him a world- wide notoriety, was 



