TRAVELS IN CIRCASSIA. 331 



and leave us to the mercy of our Circassian friends. 

 The former was bound for Souchoum ; the latter was 

 to return for us to Trebizond. Our cavalcade, num- 

 bering fifteen, presented quite an imposing appear- 

 ance. We were obliged to devote three horses to the 

 transport of baggage, the greater portion of which was 

 composed of presents for the native chiefs at whose 

 houses we expected to lodge, as a currency is un- 

 known in the country ; and the only way of return- 

 ing hospitality is by the donation of small articles 

 of European fabrication. The animals we bestrode 

 were mere ponies, ragged and miserable in appear- 

 ance, but, as our experience proved, possessing great 

 pluck and powers of endurance. The verdant hill- 

 sides came almost down to the sea, leaving only a 

 narrow strip of beach to serve as a road. Owing, 

 however, to the inaccessible nature of their country, 

 the sea-shore forms by far the most frequented route 

 for Circassians, whenever they can manage to avail 

 themselves of it ; and in spite of our energetically ex- 

 pressed wishes to proceed inland, the guides evidently 

 manifested some reluctance to leave the shingle beach 

 for the mountain -pass. Nor is the sea itself alto- 

 gether neglected as a means of communication by 

 the Circassians, although unable to trade upon it. 

 We observed a method of making it available for 

 purposes of water - carriage, which has never yet 

 occurred to the islanders of Great Britain. It was 

 perfectly calm, the breakers of a few days before had 



