TRAVELS IN CIRCASSIA. 333 



character. The beds of the numerous rivers which 

 descend from the western slopes of the Caucasus to 

 the sea form indeed the only means of communica- 

 tion with the interior, and, when these are flooded, 

 the Circassians stay at home. For months at a time 

 all communication between the opposite sides of the 

 valley is suspended. We were compelled to cross 

 this stream twice, and as the current Avas excessively 

 rapid, and reached to the saddle-straps, the operation 

 was by no means agreeable. As evening was draw- 

 ing in we reached the Iwnak of the Bey with whom 

 we were destined to pass the night, situated upon the 

 hillside on the right bank. His habitation consisted 

 of a group of single rooms standing separately upon a 

 green lawn, and overshadowed by noble beech and 

 chestnut trees, the whole enclosed by a neat paling. 

 In the neighbourhood were numerous other cottages 

 surrounded by fields of maze and millet, sloping down 

 to the stream. The situation of the village was 

 charming, and commanded a lovely view of the fertile 

 valley and lofty mountain-range beyond. Our arrival, 

 of course, created a great sensation. The Bey received 

 us with the utmost warmth and cordiality, placing 

 two cottages at our disposal. Every man of influence 

 in Circassia has one or two rooms which are called 

 guest-houses, and are devoted to the reception of 

 strangers, for the Circassians themselves are always 

 gadding about, like the Tartars of the Crimea or the 

 gentry of England, paying visits and staying at each 



