TRAVELS IN CIRCASSIA. 355 



and they have in consequence been spending them- 

 selves in the good cause. The Circassians, who 

 entertain the highest reverence for the head of their 

 religion at Constantinople, would desire nothing bet- 

 ter than to owe him that nominal allegiance which 

 they suppose is professed by other nations, for then 

 they think they would be protected. At present they 

 regard themselves at the mercy of Russia, England, 

 or any other voracious Power who may manifest a 

 desire to annex them. In order, therefore, to travel 

 comfortably in Circassia, it is necessary to be provided 

 with a firman from the Sultan, which always com- 

 mands the highest possible respect ; while, on the 

 other hand, a traveller without being thus accredited 

 is always an object of suspicion and distrust. 



The more bigoted the Mahometan the more un- 

 willing he is to receive him, and the Naib has be- 

 haved ungraciously to those who have visited him 

 even though provided with a Sultan's firman. This 

 feeling of antipathy to Giaours generally has been 

 increasing a good deal lately under the influence of 

 this man. In future it is not to be expected that 

 Englishmen attempting to travel in Circassia will be 

 received even as we were, for not only is the power 

 of the Naib spreading, but our conduct in having 

 allowed the Russians to re-establish their blockade 

 will make us unpopular, while the difficulty of break- 

 ing through it will remain the same as it was before 

 the war. Meantime the night air is getting chill, 



