TRAVELS IN CIKCASSIA. 381 



Eussian fort, now dismantled, we found a number of 

 brass guns in a perfectly good state of preservation. 

 The Circassians were revelling in the domain of their 

 old enemies, little dreaming that the day would soon 

 come when the barrier would again be established 

 which should cut them off from intercourse with the 

 whole civilised world. We, too, as we rode along 

 the shingly beach, under shelter of gigantic forest- 

 trees, speculated upon the happy future which seemed 

 now in store for this devoted land when its resources 

 should be developed, and intercourse with Europe 

 produce its beneficial influence upon the benighted 

 population. 



We found practical evidence of the truth of the 

 assertion of our guides as to the alteration which 

 existed in the sentiments of the people among whom 

 we were now journeying, when we arrived at our 

 night's quarters at Ardiller. Some of the villagers 

 came in to inspect us, and, accustomed as they were 

 to Russians, manifested no curiosity, and very little 

 interest in us. One of these, a fine stalwart fellow, 

 with a disagreeable sneer upon his countenance, in- 

 formed us, without circumlocution, that he was heart 

 and soul a Eussian. He said he regretted their 

 departure exceedingly, and hoped soon to see them 

 back again ; whereupon one of our Circassian guides, 

 of an impetuous disposition, applied an epithet to the 

 speaker which has its equivalent in civilised, but not 

 in polite society, accompanying the same with a ges- 



