THE TROUT IN THE PAN 181 



month and not grown weary of it. Cooks usually 

 boil fish in fat, for that is cook-book "frying," 

 but I do not; I "saute," properly speaking. 

 Dress the fish and wipe dry; if recently caught, 

 sever the back-bone midway between head and 

 tail to prevent curling. Remove the heads un- 

 less you can stomach "pop-eyes." If the pan is 

 going to be crowded, better clip the tails, for they 

 stick. Have ready a bed of flameless hot coals; 

 lacking that, three stones or a camp-grate (see 

 last chapter), and plenty of small twigs for fire- 

 wood. Do not attempt to fry fish over a large 

 fire. Now place several slices of bacon in the 

 pan, sufficient to make plenty of fat; or use sweet 

 butter, if you have and prefer it. When the 

 bacon is browned, remove to platter, and drop the 

 fish in the sizzling fat, one by one. Fish were 

 previously salted. Do not attempt to fry too 

 many at once. When brown upon one side, turn 

 over and brown the other. Keep fat sizzling all 

 the time, by adding fuel, twig by twig, or drawing 

 fresh coals under the pan. If you lack frying 

 material at any time add butter or more fat. 

 The secret of proper frying is plenty of heat. 

 Never let the fat cool. If you have too much 

 fat, turn off just before you finish the job, and 

 brown, being careful that fish do not burn. Eter- 



