FROM THE ALTAI TO THE ILI 409 



military strength on the part of the Chinese, which 

 must have greatly amused our Russian friends. The 

 morning air resounded with bugle-calls and the 

 continual firing of salutes ; but it is doubtful whether 

 this suggestion of power impressed even the natives. 



Chuguchak is the chief outlet to Siberia for all Dzun- 

 garia. Its future may be full of possibilities. Here 

 lies the only open road between Western China and 

 Russian Asia; for all other tracks, — with the sole ex- 

 ception of a peculiar deep-cut trench, the Dzungarian 

 Gate, which lies to the west of Chuguchak, — must pass 

 the mountain barrier. By way of an easily graded pass 

 of 5,945 ft. above sea-level, situated about eighty miles 

 to the south of the town, one can travel without 

 hindrance from the Siberian plains to the Dzungarian 

 deserts and on to China, Mongolia, or the Gates of 

 Pekin. 



Although eager to pursue our journey to Kulja, and 

 with no desire to stay more than a day in Chuguchak, 

 we found ourselves delayed for fifteen days in the most 

 aggravating manner before being able to start again. 

 The nearness of a Russian post-road and its methods 

 of quick transport made us think of reaching Kulja 

 through Russian territory ; telegrams requesting per- 

 mission to do so were even despatched to the Governor- 

 General at Tashkent, but when the reply came that 

 the permit would have to be obtained in St. Petersburg, 

 former experience made us aware that, under the cir- 

 cumstances, it would be far quicker to walk to Kulja. 



Two other routes were open to us : the road which 

 runs southwards, joins the Pei-lu, or northern high-road 

 in Southern Dzungaria, and thence turns westwards to 

 the Hi Valley ; or a horse-track running in a direct 



