FROM KULJA TO KUMUL 453 



separate " outfits," the whole country being dotted with 

 the camel-herds feeding vigorously on the excellent 

 grass. Here the caravans rest until they receive from 

 the agents in Guchen sufficient loads to enable them to 

 start back on the ret urn- journey. The caravans never 

 actually enter the town of Guchen, but remain outside, 

 where the bales are gradually collected until a caravan- 

 bashi has his full complement. Then the slow freight- 

 train starts on its journey eastwards. 



The long, snaky, camel-caravan is such a feature 

 of the trade-routes of Asia and so large a number of men 

 gain a living by caravanning and occupy their whole 

 hves in moving to and fro across the heart of the con- 

 tinent with their charges — the camels, that this allu- 

 sion to camel-transport would be incomplete without 

 a description of a caravan on the march. We met 

 many of a prodigious size, slowly moving along the well- 

 worn routes, and all presenting much the same appear- 

 ance. The approach of a caravan was heralded by the 

 far-away sound of low-toned bells, wind-borne across 

 miles of desert, and mellowed by distance ; an hour might 

 easily elapse before any sign of it would appear. 

 First prowled the dogs — guards of the camp — of a breed 

 kept and highly valued as watch-dogs ; they were black, 

 shaggy animals of a sturdy build. All day they 

 roamed at will, but at night their duty was to watch 

 over the bales of merchandise ; after dark they became 

 uncommonly savage, and any one foolish enough to 

 approach an encampment on foot and unarmed would 

 be certain of a bad mauling. Even when on horseback, 

 it is often necessary to tuck one's legs well up to escape 

 their teeth. Following the dogs, at the head of a string of 

 camels, slouched a big Mongol, with hands behind his 



