488 HAMI, OR KUMUL 



hearted hospitality and such genuine good-will from this 

 Eastern Prince, that no written words can sufficiently 

 convey our appreciation. After the first short com- 

 plimentary visits which he paid us, and which we returned, 

 the Khan invited us to dinner, and the five hours spent 

 in his company in his palace gave us a real insight into 

 the life of a Chanto ruler. 



Overlooking the town of Kumul was the group of 

 buildings making up the Khan's residence, picturesque 

 in the possession of several stories, high walls, great 

 gateways, and a paved road leading up to them. 

 Sending a messenger in advance, we rode first through 

 a portion of the Turki town, which, with narrow alleys 

 between fiat-roofed mud-houses, street corners over- 

 shadowed by fine old trees, — under which groups of 

 gaudily dressed Kumuliks lounged and talked, — with 

 mosques and minarets, presented a choice of rare pictures 

 to the eye of the artist. As we approached the palace 

 and passed under the numerous vaulted gates into 

 the inner courtyard we felt as if we were approaching 

 the stronghold of some medieval baron. On our 

 arrival servants were awaiting us ; some seized our 

 horses, while others led us on through the last gateway 

 into the outer hall of the Khan's abode. Here was 

 drawn up a double line of armed retainers, — a body- 

 guard of Chinese soldiers, mercenaries in the employ of 

 the Khan. The Khan himself came down to meet us, 

 and led us, with much ceremony, into the inner chamber, 

 where we sat down and drank tea. 



The palace was a quaint structure, a composition 

 of both Chinese and Turki architecture, the interior 

 being well furnished in Chinese style. Here in Eastern 

 luxury lived the Khan, surrounded by his retainers and 



