THE KARLIK TAGH 501 



of the ground and of the condition of the Kumuhk culti- 

 vators in those parts. Leaving Kumul on March 12th 

 with one man as guide, we rode to the north-north-east. 

 Immediately on leaving the cultivated areas we found 

 that the sandy soil, deprived of its moisture by irrigation 

 works, was threatening to overrun the oasis ; the land had 

 perished, and the desert was encroaching on the " sown." 

 Beyond this, a bare gravel ''sai" led us, for twenty 

 miles, up to the rocky girdle of sandstone which forms 

 the first foot-hills of the range. There was nothing to 

 note during this long ride except one great watch-tower 

 which stood alone in the plain, about half-way between 

 Kumul and the mountains. Being massively built, it 

 formed a landmark for a great distance, and was evidently 

 intended as a place of refuge. Stein says that it was 

 reputed to be of great age, and he questions from what 

 marauding tribes of the north was it meant to offer 

 shelter. 



On approaching the foot-hills we found a small river 

 issuing from a gorge in the sandstone range, and 

 forming a tiny area of fertile land at the point where 

 it entered the plain. The river had cut a deep trench 

 in the gravel fan, and terraces a hundred feet high 

 margined the little valley, in which were ensconced the 

 fields and village of Toruk. Toruk was apparently a 

 typical village of Kumuliks, whose progress is limited 

 by the amount of land at their disposal and the amount 

 of water they are allowed to use for irrigation purposes. 

 This locality supported only some twelve or fifteen houses ; 

 these were crowded together in the space of less than 

 half an acre, and formed a circle, completely walled 

 in but for one wide gateway. Boulders from the river- 

 bed and mud formed the building material. Naturally 



