554 DZUNGARIA 



The costume of a well-to-do Kalmuk ^ woman is very- 

 striking. A long blue and red gown, generally un- 

 girded at the waist, reaches almost to her feet, and 

 above this she wears a short, zouave-shaped jacket, of 

 the same colours, heavily embroidered. Ample sleeves 

 cover her hands, and have to be continually hitched 

 back, as they impede her in her household occupations. 

 Long and heavy plaits hang down over each breast, 

 generally encased in cloth covers, to protect the clothing 

 from the mutton-fat with which the hair is covered. 

 Their usual headdress is dark blue, with an upturned 

 brim, very Chinese in appearance. Underneath this is 

 often worn a coral-covered skull-cap. Their ears, fingers, 

 and hair are always decorated with heavy silver and 

 coral rings, and their brooches are often of beautiful 

 workmanship. 



On the second night from leaving the village, after 

 a long, gradual ascent from the river, we reached, at 

 dark, the camp of the Amban of the Upper Borotala 

 tucked away under the very foot of the Ala-tau, which 

 loomed mysteriously above us. Much barking heralded 

 our arrival, while flashes of light showed us the men 

 hurrying out to assist us in unpacking the loads and 

 pitching camp. 



On the following morning a brightly clad group 

 with the Amban at its head, was drawn up to receive us 

 outside the ceremonial yurt. We were ushered in with 

 much hand-shaking and bowing, and had bowls of that 

 most abominable of drinks, arak, placed before us. This 

 spirit, distilled from milk, is, when kept, exceedingly 

 intoxicating. The bowls in which it was served were 



^ Used as a general term for all western Mongols. 

 * The Kho-ching section of the Charkhars. 



