SPORT IN THE HIGHLANDS 555 



much more pleasing than the drink itself, being carved 

 from knots of walnut-wood, and lined with Chinese 

 " shoe " silver. When darkened with age, they are 

 exceedingly handsome. They were said to have been 

 brought all the way from Lhasa by pilgrims, who pre- 

 sented them to their Chiefs. The Chieftain of the Charkhars 

 was remarkably impressive in appearance, with a hard, 

 strong, imperturbable countenance. He was the sort 

 of man one would picture as one of the generals of 

 Jenghis Khan. 



The view from this camp on the slopes of the Ala-tau 

 was one of remarkable extent and impressiveness ; the 

 clearness of the atmosphere was such as is only met 

 with in these dry, elevated regions. At our feet the 

 ground dropped gradually to the Borotala River, which 

 ran like a narrow green band through the khaki-coloured 

 plain, losing itself in a broad belt of scrub and cultivation 

 in the direction of Ebi Nor. Far beyond, filling up 

 the whole of the southern horizon, stretched the great 

 mass of the Tian Shan, from the Talki Pass to the colossal 

 peaks above Manas. At that distance it seemed to 

 rise perpendicularly from the plains, a line of glittering 

 peaks above a dark base. But it was to the west, up 

 Borotala, that we looked with greatest interest, for 

 there lay the unknown. 



On leaving this camp we experienced one of those 

 exasperating " starts " that are the curse of caravan- 

 travelling ; there are few things more trying to the 

 temper and patience than the first day with a new 

 caravan. It was not till midday that the horses began 

 to dribble in by ones and twos, and then the saddles 

 and gear were found to be deficient. Lastly, the men 

 who were going with us thought fit to celebrate the 



