CH. VI. HOPE RIVER. 79 



For some distance after crossing the Tongue ferry 

 the road is dreary and bleak, passing over a brown 

 and wet tract of mossy ground, and for several 

 miles we continued ascending. The wind and 

 rain were incessant and very heavy. Having sur- 

 mounted the highest ridge, we descended the hill 

 to the Hope river, which is crossed by what is 

 called a chain -boat; that is, we drive upon a 

 wooden platform without taking the horse out of 

 the carriage. The platform then, with all upon 

 it, is hauled across the river by means of a chain 

 and windlass. The glen through which the river 

 Hope runs is very beautifully shut in by its wooded 

 banks ; and the gray mountains offering a new 

 point of interest at every turn of the road, give 

 never-ceasing pleasure and excitement. Here we 

 continually saw eagles and other rare birds. A 

 shepherd told us that the lambs were killed every 

 day by eagles ; but he seemed to know little, and 

 to care less, about the breeding-place of the birds. 

 It is nearly impossible to get a direct or truthlike 

 answer from many of the Highlanders ; for though 

 intelligent enough, they seem to have a kind of 

 suspicious dislike to giving information. 



One thing particularly struck me in this part of 

 the country. Depending on the Duke of Suther- 

 land's well-known kindness and liberality, the lower 



