162 TOUR IN SUTHERLAND. CH. XI. 



is easy by land or sea. Once there, the traveller 

 in Sutherlandshire has two ways of going through 

 the county — either by hiring a horse and suitable 

 machine, or by travelling by the mail-carriage, a 

 kind of open phaeton, which takes (as well as I 

 remember) several passengers : this vehicle goes 

 twice a week northwards, and as often south. I 

 rather prefer the more independent way of hiring 

 a horse, which ought to be done for four or five 

 shillings a day, exclusive of his keep. Although 

 hay is not always to be had, I never failed getting 

 good oats at the inns, and good grass, so that a 

 horse is never at a loss. From Tain or Inver- 

 o-ordon the best route to the north of Sutherland 

 is to Ardgye, near Bonar Bridge ; a good inn and 

 excellent landlord. From thence to Lairg is eleven 

 miles. 



At Lairg is another excellent inn, in a most 

 beautiful situation. Lairg to Aultnaharrow, twenty- 

 two miles ; thence to Tongue, seventeen miles ; 

 Tongue to Durness, eighteen miles, with a rest- 

 ing-inn at Heilam Ferry, or Loch Emboli, about 

 half-way. 



At Durness I should be content to pass many a 

 day. The inn is one of the best in Sutherland, 

 and the landlady, Mrs. Eoss, makes her visitors as 

 comfortable as they can desire ; at the same time, 



