134 MEMOIR OF FLEEMING JENKIN 



shops guiltless of windows, with signs in Greek 

 letters ; dogs, Greeks in blue, baggy, Zouave 

 breeches and a fez, a few narghilehs and a sprinkling 

 of the ordinary continental shopboys. In the 



evening I tried one more walk in Syra with A , 



but in vain endeavoured to amuse myself or to 

 spend money ; the first effort resulting in singing 

 Doodah to a passing Greek or two, the second in 



spending, no, in making A spend, threepence 



on coffee for three. 



'May 16. 



* On coming on deck, I found we were at anchor 

 in Canea bay, and saw one of the most lovely sights 

 man could witness. Far on either hand stretch 

 bold mountain capes, Spada and Maleka, tender in 

 colour, bold in outline ; rich sunny levels lie beneath 

 them, framed by the azure sea. Right in front, 

 a dark brown fortress girdles white mosques and 

 minarets. Rich and green, our mountain capes 

 here join to form a setting for the town, in whose 

 dark walls still darker open a dozen high-arched 

 caves in which the huge Venetian galleys used to 

 lie in wait. High above all, higher and higher yet, 

 up into the firmament, range after range of blue 

 and snow-capped mountains. I was bewildered 

 and amazed, having heard nothing of this great 

 beauty. The town when entered is quite eastern. 

 The streets are formed of open stalls under the first 

 story, in which squat tailors, cooks, sherbet vendors 



