8 LIST OF CONTENTS 



CHAPTEK XVI 



N.E. Gale " Got o' this intil a waur" Into Deep Sound- 

 ings It Blows Hard Black Night and Phosphorescent 

 Wake Oil on the Waters Driving through A Scrap of 

 Sail Attempt at Dolphin Spearing A Whale in Phos- 

 phorescent Sea An Idyllic Sunday A Shoppie or Sale of 

 Clothes from the Slop Chest Esthetic Music Grieg on 

 a Melodeon M'Crimmon on Practice Chanter Men who 

 have dreamed A Demonstration on flensing a Whale 

 Dolphin Steak and Onions The Islands of the World . 122 



CHAPTER XVII 



A New Land (to us) St Michael of the Azores Bens and 

 Glens Colour of the Island Portuguese Pilot Talk by 

 Signs About Sperm Whales Ponta Delgada Its 

 Remarkable Beauty Arcades Colour Reflections The 

 Inner Harbour Sea Fishing Bonita A Trammel Net 

 Hunting for Whales round the Island Distress Signals 

 The Wreck . . ... 130 



CHAPTER XVIII 



Notes about the Island Compared with Madeira Its Sights 

 The Streets of Delgada A Cafe Vino Tinto Guitar 

 Melody Costumes Chase Small Whales Whales' 

 Ocean Routes " The Ladies' Gulf" . 139 



CHAPTER XIX 



A Sudden Gale Driving on to a Lee Shore Bad Night 

 Engine Trouble Killers attacking Whale Recollec- 

 tions of the Antarctic Oddments An Eight-Foot Ray 

 or Skate A Jaunt on Shore The Writer's Excursion 

 to " The Seven Cities" Up the Hills Wind up Affairs 

 in Delgada Up Anchor . . . .146 



CHAPTER XX 



Leave the Azores and San Miguel Madeira in Prospect and 

 Tunny Fishing Whales at Last ! Sperm A Chase 

 Prospects of Success Long Chase Fast ! A Straight 

 Shot A Bull Sperm Cutting up a Sperm Whale's 

 Anatomy Sharks Creeling a Shark Single-handed 

 Spermaceti Oil Blubber like Marble Cooking Process 

 . s. d. on the Horizon Sharks and Pilot Fish General 

 Satisfaction Whaling off Madeira . . . 154 



CHAPTER XXI 



Madeira at Dawn from the Sea Description Funchal 

 Flowers Tunny Fishing Early Morning Start Splen- 

 did Colours of Native Boats and Crews Small Fry for 

 Bait A Large Tunny caught by next Boat Our Tunny 

 and Pulley-haul Fight Sailing Back . . .165 



