140 WHALING AND BEAR-HUNTING 



blue, and the green balconies and red-tiled eaves showing 

 against a narrow belt of blue sky. The rooms or cellars of 

 the ground floor are arched and the narrow footway is made 

 of a mosaic of round pebbles and quartz. There is a quiet 

 mystery in these narrow lanes in the hot midday, when 

 the green shutters are closed, and more mystery again at 

 night when all the blinds are open and there is lamplight 

 and faint music from mandoline and guitar. 

 The shops of Ponta Delgada are in these arched caves 



which support the dwelling-houses and balconies, and they 

 have no signboards ! If you wish to find a shoemaker you 

 must walk looking into these caves. Ah yes ! I've seen 

 one signboard, a scarlet swinging hand representing a lady's 

 glove now that's worth remembering. Find that and keep 

 it to starboard, till right abeam, then swing to port and you 

 will find on your left a cave-topped restaurant, the Atlantico, 

 clean and cool it is, with walls painted delicate green. There 

 are six little tables in the front part, a desk and an arched 



