CULINARY HERBS 21 



In classes by themselves are tarragon and spear- 

 mint, the former of which is chiefly used as a decoc- 

 tion in the flavoring of fish sauces, and the latter as 

 the universal dressing with spring lamb. Mint has 

 also a more convivial use, but this seems more the 

 province of the W. C. T. U. than of this book to dis- 

 cuss. 



Dill is probably the most important of the herbs 

 whose seeds, rather than their leaves, are used in 

 flavoring food other than confectionery. It plays its 

 chief role in the pickle barrel. Immense quantities 

 of cucumber pickles flavored principally with dill 

 are used in the restaurants of the larger cities and 

 also by families, the foreign-born citizens and their 

 descendants being the chief consumers. The de- 

 mand for these pickles is met by the leading pickle 

 manufacturers who prepare special brands, gener- 

 ally according to German recipes, and sell them to 

 the delicatessen and the grocery stores. If they 

 were to rely upon me for business, they would soon 

 go bankrupt. To my palate the dill pickle appeals 

 as almost the acme of disagreeableness. 



NOTABLE INSTANCE OF USES 



The flavors of the various herbs cover a wide 

 range, commencing with fennel and ending with 

 sage, and are capable of wide application. In one 

 case which came under my observation, the cook 

 made a celery-flavored stew of some meat scraps. 

 Not being wholly consumed, the surviving debris 

 appeared a day or two later, in company with other 



