122 CHARLES DARWIN 



night. The wind was very strong and cold, but I never slept 

 more comfortably. 



September loth. In the morning, having fairly scudded 

 before the gale, we arrived by the middle of the day at the 

 Sauce posta. On the road we saw great numbers of deer, 

 and near the mountain a guanaco. The plain, which abuts 

 against the Sierra, is traversed by some curious gullies, of 

 which one was about twenty feet wide, and at least thirty 

 deep ; we were obliged in consequence to make a considerable 

 circuit before we could find a pass. We stayed the night 

 at the posta, the conversation, as was generally the case, 

 being about the Indians. The Sierra Ventana was formerly 

 a great place of resort; and three or four years ago there 

 was much fighting there. My guide had been present when 

 many Indians were killed: the women escaped to the top of 

 the ridge, and fought most desperately with great stones; 

 many thus saving themselves. 



September nth. Proceeded to the third posta in com- 

 pany with the lieutenant who commanded it. The distance 

 is called fifteen leagues; but it is only guess-work, and is 

 generally overstated. The road was uninteresting, over a 

 dry grassy plain; and on our left hand at a greater or less 

 distance there were some low hills ; a continuation of which 

 we crossed close to the posta. Before our arrival we met 

 a large herd of cattle and horses, guarded by fifteen soldiers ; 

 but we were told many had been lost. It is very difficult to 

 drive animals across the plains; for if in the night a puma, 

 or even a fox, approaches, nothing can prevent the horses 

 dispersing in every direction ; and a storm will have the 

 same effect. A short time since, an officer left Buenos Ayres 

 with five hundred horses, and when he arrived at the army 

 he had under twenty. 



Soon afterwards we perceived by the cloud of dust, that 

 a party of horsemen were coming towards us; when far dis- 

 tant my companions knew them to be Indians, by their long 

 hair streaming behind their backs. The Indians generally 

 have a fillet round their heads, but never any covering; and 

 their black hair blowing across their swarthy faces, height- 

 ens to an uncommon degree the wildness of their appearance. 

 They turned out to be a party of Bernantio's friendly tribe, 



