THE VOYAGE OF THE BEAGLE 153 



October 20th. Being arrived at the mouth of the Parana, 

 and as I was very anxious to reach Buenos Ayres, I went 

 on shore at Las Conchas, with the intention of riding there. 

 Upon landing, I found to my great surprise that I was to 

 a certain degree a prisoner. A violent revolution having 

 broken out, all the ports were laid under an embargo. I 

 could not return to my vessel, and as for going by land to 

 the city, it was out of the question. After a long conversa- 

 tion with the commandant, I obtained permission to go the 

 next day to General Rolor, who commanded a division of 

 the rebels on this side the capital. In the morning I rode 

 to the encampment. The general, officers, and soldiers, all 

 appeared, and I believe really were, great villains. The 

 general, the very evening before he left the city, voluntarily 

 went to the Governor, and with his hand to his heart, pledged 

 his word of honour that he at least would remain faithful 

 to the last. The general told me that the city was in a state 

 of close blockade, and that all he could do was to give me 

 a passport to the commander-in-chief of the rebels at Quil- 

 mes. We had therefore to take a great sweep round the 

 city, and it was with much difficulty that we procured horses. 

 My reception at the encampment was quite civil, but I was 

 told it was impossible that I could be allowed to enter the 

 city. I was very anxious about this, as I anticipated the 

 Beagle's departure from the Rio Plata earlier than it took 

 place. Having mentioned, however, General Rosas's oblig- 

 ing kindness to me when at the Colorado, magic itself could 

 not have altered circumstances quicker than did this con- 

 versation. I was instantly told that though they could not 

 give me a passport, if I chose to leave my guide and horses, 

 I might pass their sentinels. I was too glad to accept of 

 this, and an officer was sent with me to give directions that 

 I should not be stopped at the bridge. The road for the 

 space of a league was quite deserted. I met one party of 

 soldiers, who were satisfied by gravely looking at an old 

 passport : and at length I was not a little pleased to find my- 

 self within the city. 



This revolution was supported by scarcely any pretext of 

 grievances : but in a state which, in the course of nine months 

 (from February to October, 1820), underwent fifteen 



