CHAPTER VIII 

 BANDA ORIENTAL AND PATAGONIA 



Excursion to Colonia del Sacramiento Value of an Estancia Cattle, 

 how counted Singular Breed of Oxen Perforated Pebbles Shep- 

 herd Dogs Horses broken-in, Gauchos riding Character of In- 

 habitants Rio Plata Flocks of Butterflies Aeronaut Spiders 

 Phosphorescence of the Sea Port Desire Guanaco Port St. 

 Julian Geology of Patagonia Fossil gigantic Animal Types of 

 Organization constant Change in the Zoology of America Causes 

 of Extinction. 



HAVING been delayed for nearly a fortnight in the 

 city, I was glad to escape on board a packet bound 

 for Monte Video. A town in a state of blockade 

 must always be a disagreeable place of residence ; in this case 

 moreover there were constant apprehensions from robbers 

 within. The sentinels were the worst of all; for, from 

 their office and from having arms in their hands, they robbed 

 with a degree of authority which other men could not 

 imitate. 



Our passage was a very long and tedious one. The Plata 

 looks like a noble estuary on the map ; but is in truth a poor 

 affair. A wide expanse of muddy water has neither gran- 

 deur nor beauty. At one time of the day, the two shores, 

 both of which are extremely low, could just be distinguished 

 from the deck. On arriving at Monte Video I found that 

 the Beagle would not sail for some time, so I prepared for a 

 short excursion in this part of Banda Oriental. Everything 

 which I have said about the country near Maldonado is ap- 

 plicable to Monte Video; but the land, with the one excep- 

 tion of the Green Mount 450 feet high, from which it takes 

 its name, is far more level. Very little of the undulating 

 grassy plain is enclosed; but near the town there are a few 

 hedge-banks, covered with agaves, cacti, and fennel. 



November i^ih. We left Monte Video in the afternoon. 



155 



