THE VOYAGE OF THE BEAGLE 275 



course horizontal, and to this line the even summits of the 

 range seemed quite parallel. Only at long intervals, a group 

 of points or a single cone showed where a volcano had 

 existed, or does now exist. Hence the range resembled a 

 great solid wall, surmounted here and there by a tower, and 

 making a most perfect barrier to the country. 



Almost every part of the hill had been drilled by attempts 

 to open gold-mines: the rage for mining has left scarcely 

 a spot in Chile unexamined. I spent the evening as before, 

 talking round the fire with my two companions. The Guasos 

 of Chile, who correspond to the Gauchos of the Pampas, are, 

 however, a very different set of beings. Chile is the more 

 civilized of the two countries, and the inhabitants, in conse- 

 quence, have lost much individual character. Gradations in 

 rank are much more strongly marked: the Guaso does not 

 by any means consider every man his equal ; and I was quite 

 surprised to find that my companions did not like to eat at 

 the same time with myself. This feeling of inequality is a 

 necessary consequence of the existence of an aristocracy of 

 wealth. It is said that some few of the greater landowners 

 possess from five to ten thousand pounds sterling per annum : 

 an inequality of riches which I believe is not met with in 

 any of the cattle-breeding countries eastward of the Andes. 

 A traveller does not here meet that unbounded hospitality 

 which refuses all payment, but yet is so kindly offered that 

 no scruples can be raised in accepting it. Almost every house 

 in Chile will receive you for the night, but a trifle is expected 

 to be given in the morning ; even a rich man will accept two 

 or three shillings. The Gaucho, although he may be a cut- 

 throat, is a gentleman; the Guaso is in few respects better, 

 but at the same time a vulgar, ordinary fellow. The two men, 

 although employed much in the same manner, are different in 

 their habits and attire; and the peculiarities of each are 

 universal in their respective countries. The Gaucho seems 

 part of his horse, and scorns to exert himself except when 

 on his back : the Guaso may be hired to work as a labourer in 

 the fields. The former lives entirely on animal food ; the latter 

 almost wholly on vegetable. We do not here see the white 

 boots, the broad drawers and scarlet chilipa ; the picturesque 

 costume of the Pampas. Here, common trousers are pro- 



