302 CHARLES DARWIN" 



gether, fast asleep, like so many pigs; but even pigs would 

 have been ashamed of their dirt, and of the foul smell which 

 came from them. Each herd was watched by the patient but 

 inauspicious eyes of the turkey-buzzard. This disgusting bird, 

 with its bald scarlet head, formed to wallow in putridity, is 

 very common on the west coast, and their attendance on the 

 seals shows on what they rely for their food. We found the 

 water (probably only that of the surface) nearly fresh: this 

 was caused by the number of torrents which, in the form 

 of cascades, came tumbling over the bold granite mountains 

 into the sea. The fresh water attracts the fish, and these 

 bring many terns, gulls, and two kinds of cormorant. We 

 saw also a pair of the beautiful black-necked swans, and 

 several small sea-otters, the fur of which is held in such 

 high estimation. In returning, we were again amused by the 

 impetuous manner in which the heap of seals, old and young, 

 tumbled into the water as the boat passed. They did not 

 remain long under water, but rising, followed us with out- 

 stretched necks, expressing great wonder and curiosity. 



?th. Having run up the coast, we anchored near the 

 northern end of the Chonos Archipelago, in Low's Harbour, 

 where we remained a week. The islands were here- as in 

 Chiloe, composed of a stratified, soft, littoral deposit; and 

 the vegetation in consequence was beautifully luxuriant. The 

 woods came down to the sea-beach, just in the manner of 

 an evergreen shrubbery over a gravel walk. We also enjoyed 

 from the anchorage a splendid view of four great snowy 

 cones of the Cordillera, including " el f amoso Corcovado ; " 

 the range itself had in this latitude so little height, that few 

 parts of it appeared above the tops of the neighbouring 

 islets. We found here a party of five men from Caylen, " el 

 fin del Cristiandad," who had most adventurously crossed in 

 their miserable boat-canoe, for the purpose of fishing, the 

 open space of sea which separates Chonos from Chiloe. These 

 islands will, in all probability, in a short time become peopled 

 like those adjoining the coast of Chiloe. 



The wild potato grows on these islands in great abundance, 

 on the sandy, shelly soil near the sea-beach. The tallest 

 plant was four feet in height. The tubers were generally 



