CHAPTER XVI 

 NORTHERN CHILE AND PERU 



Coast-road to Coquimbo Great Loads carried by the Miners Co- 

 quimbo Earthquake Step-formed Terraces Absence of recent 

 Deposits Contemporaneousness of the Tertiary Formations 

 Excursion up the Valley Road to Guasco Deserts Valley of 

 Copiapo Rain and Earthquakes Hydrophobia The Despoblado 

 Indian Ruins Probable Change of Climate River-bed arched 

 by an Earthquake Cold Gales of Wind Noises from a Hill 

 Iquique Salt Alluvium Nitrate of Soda Lima Unhealthy 

 Country Ruins of Callao, overthrown by an Earthquake Recent 

 subsidence Elevated Shells on San Lorenzo, their decomposition 

 Plain with embedded Shells and fragments of Pottery Antiquity 

 of the Indian Race. 



APRIL 2?th. I set out on a journey to Coquimbo, and 

 \ thence through Guasco to Copiapo, where Captain 

 Fitz Roy kindly offered to pick me up in the Beagle. 

 The distance in a straight line along the shore northward is 

 only 420 miles; but my mode of travelling made it a very 

 long journey. I bought four horses and two mules, the 

 latter carrying the luggage on alternate days. The six 

 animals together only cost the value of twenty-five pounds 

 sterling, and at Copiapo I sold them again for twenty-three. 

 We travelled in the same independent manner as before, 

 cooking our own meals, and sleeping in the open air. As 

 we rode towards the Vino del Mar, I took a farewell view 

 of Valparaiso, and admired its picturesque appearance. For 

 geological purposes I made a detour from the high road 

 to the foot of the Bell of Quillota. We passed through an 

 alluvial district rich in gold, to the neighbourhood of Li- 

 mache, where we slept. Washing for gold supports the in- 

 habitants of numerous hovels, scattered along the sides of 

 each little rivulet; but, like all those whose gains are un- 

 certain, they are unthrifty in all their habits, and con- 

 sequently poor. 



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