450 CHARLES DARWIN 



Several young men, redeemed by the missionaries from 

 slavery, were employed on the farm. They were dressed in 

 a shirt, jacket, and trousers, and had a respectable appear- 

 ance. Judging from one trifling anecdote, I should think 

 they must be honest. When walking in the fields, a young 

 labourer came up to Mr. Davies, and gave him a knife and 

 gimlet, saying that he had found them on the road, and did 

 not know to whom they belonged! These young men and 

 boys appeared very merry and good-humoured. In the even- 

 ing I saw a party of them at cricket: when I thought of the 

 austerity of which the missionaries have been accused, I was 

 amused by observing one of their own sons taking an active 

 part in the game. A more decided and pleasing change was 

 manifested in the young women, who acted as servants within 

 the houses. Their clean, tidy, and healthy appearance, like 

 that of the dairy-maids in England, formed a wonderful 

 contrast with the women of the filthy hovels in Kororadika. 

 The wives of the missionaries tried to persuade them not to 

 be tattooed; but a famous operator having arrived from the 

 south, they said, " We really must just have a few lines on 

 our lips ; else when we grow old, our lips will shrivel, and we 

 shall be so very ugly." There is not nearly so much tattooing 

 as formerly; but as it is a badge of distinction between the 

 chief and the slave, it will probably long be practised. So 

 soon does any train of ideas become habitual, that the mis- 

 sionaries told me that even in their eyes a plain face looked 

 mean, and not like that of a New Zealand gentleman. 



Late in the evening I went to Mr. Williams's house, where 

 I passed the night. I found there a large party of children, 

 collected together for Christmas Day, and all sitting round 

 a table at tea. I never saw a nicer or more merry group ; and 

 to think that this was in the centre of the land of cannibal- 

 ism, murder, and all atrocious crimes! The cordiality and 

 happiness so plainly pictured in the faces of the little circle, 

 appeared equally felt by the older persons of the mission. 



December 24th. In the morning, prayers were read in 

 the native tongue to the whole family. After breakfast I 

 rambled about the gardens and farm. This was a market- 

 day, when the natives of the surrounding hamlets bring their 

 potatoes, Indian corn, or pigs, to exchange for blankets, 



